Does it have a pipe stat? They’re not expensive to get fitted if not (and certainly cheaper than heating your whole house all night). You need a frost stat which is definitely working in your case that will switch the boiler on once the temperature dips below a certain level, the pipe stat then checks the temperature inside the boiler system and switches it off once it is warm enough so that it doesn’t turn your central heating on.
Funny I always thought you were a school teacher, I never would have guessed you were an heating engineer
Jack of all trades me! It comes from being tight and not wanting to pay anyone to do anything or if I do have to pay, wanting to know exactly what it is I’m paying for
I would keep it for now but try to find where it's leaking. Probably also worth bleeding all the radiators because air in the system makes the pressure go up and down with the temperature so that you top it up when it's cold and it starts up, gets hot and the pressure goes up resulting in the safety pressure release activating - you probably wouldn't notice that. It then runs ok till it goes cold overnight and needs topping up again. I'm not a plumber or heating engineer by the way, but I've had these problems in the past.
One other thing, there might be an air pressure detector for the balanced flue, it will be linked with a narrow rubber pipe which sometimes gets blocked or kinked. That will stop the boiler from starting up.
I like your style, the mrs has in recent years... cleaned out the sump in the boiler, replaced the heating element in the oven, changed an internal plastic panel of car bodywork, removed a loose plastic bit from the dishwasher pump, car headlight lamps a plenty these are small fry now! all by viewing YouTube for half an hour and having a go
It's the way forward, I'm telling you! The only times I get in expert help now is if it's too dangerous to do (e.g. boiler beyond small bits mentioned above) or I'm not strong enough to do something... which is really annoying when I know exactly what needs doing, I have the tools but not the physical strength to complete it.
Look outside at the little copper pipe (PRV) if there’s evidence of water there it indicates your expansion vessel has lost its charge, it’s a very simple fix and shout to cost no more than a call out plus an hours fee....TOPS!!!! What boiler is it BTW? It far outweighs changing your boiler
Well, it looks like I might be having to do it again. Car's check engine light came on this morning, plugged in the OBDII scanner and got the fault code P0328 which means there's a problem with the knock sensor. Not had chance to have a look at it yet as the intake manifold needs removing, will have to see if it's a wiring issue or if it needs replacing. I should probably just bite the bullet and replace the car as it's needed a few things doing to it in the last 12 months, it's pretty much exactly a year since we replaced the sump and it's only a fortnight since the front two alloys were replaced as they were buckling and the tyres kept losing air. I'm not sure if test drives are going ahead though, or if I want to do one even, so I'm trying to hold off. I'm also not excited at the prospect of muckying up a new(ish) car with dog hair and mud.
