Any builders on here that can give me some advice - both safety and monetary advice required!!!

I've got some 'landscape gardeners' in who are building a retaining wall and blocking my drive but I am extremely concerned about the safety of the wall and the backfill that they have put up to it which is suppose dto be supporting the drive. Have you any recommendations about thicknesses of wall etc so I can have a bit of ammunition to come back at them with? Thanks, Chris </p>

 

This page should help you: <u><font color="#800080">http://www.lbwf.gov.uk/index/environment/environment-building-control/environment-building-control-information-guide/garden-walls.htm</font></u></p>

And also the stuff below taken from this page http://www.pavingexpert.com/featur03.htm</p>

<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="10" width="720" border="0"><tbody><tr><td class="text" colspan="2"><h2>Retaining Walls</h2>Retainer walls are used to hold back a bank of earth or similar. They range from small walls in a garden, holding back raised beds, to massive structures, 10m or more high, retaining a motorway embankment.

Retainer walls are not as straightforward as simple walls, and any such walls greater than 1m high should be designed by a civil or structural engineer who is familiar with site and ground conditions. </p>

For low embankments, 600mm or less, a flag on edge retainer may well be adequate, and will certainly be cheaper than a brick-built wall. Other options include gabions, timber crib structures or proprietary retaining wall systems. Contact details suppliers of these products can be found on the links page. </p></td></tr><tr><td class="text">This diagram illustrates a basic retainer wall for heights up to about one metre. The important points to note are that the foundation is laid on a solid base of clay or stable ground, or with 300mm of cover; that the rear of the wall, in contact with the earth, should be protected with a damp-proof membrane such as PIFA 1200, and that there should be some method of draining the bank, either via weepholes or by means of a perforated drain.

It is essential that the correct bricks are used. 'House bricks' may or may not be suitable, depending on classification. Engineering bricks are fine, as are any other bricks with a FL classification (frost resistant/low salt content). Stone or suitable concrete blocks could also be used. </p>

If in doubt, seek professional guidance. </p></td><td class="label" valign="bottom" align="center"></td></tr></tbody></table></p>

 

Thanks, think I'm being shafted!

 

What is it that you think they're doing wrong?

 

RE: What is it that you think they're doing wrong?

Wall doesn't appear thick enough, no drains, no gravel or damp proof course, soil and rubble just thrown into void - no compaction at all - just got a horrible gut feeling that it's allgoing to go wrong and that i'm being fleeced.</p>

C</p>

 

RE: What is it that you think they're doing wrong?

i'm no builder but from what i've read about retaining walls and my own limited experience, the drainage is essential otherwise water will soak through the ground and have nowhere to go which will cause more pressure onto the wall and in time may cause it to buckle or at least move.</p>

 

My own experience is similar

A single skin wall of concrete blocks 1.2m high and without drainage holes, currently keeps my lawn out of my dining room.  But it's bowing, moving and cracking, so I have some builders on the way.